One of the most common problems I’ve had in years in astrophotography, probably because I never spent lots of money for a “motorized Focuser with attributes”, was the change of focus during the shooting session, perhaps due to sudden changes in temperature but also the weight of the camera, it could also be partly due to the press of the buttons on the camera to review and make partir shots rack and pinion Focuser, and like in my refractors could shift even though imperceptibly fire.
For this reason I have always been interested in the possibility of remote even partially the photo session and found and tested several solutions, primarily with DSLR, which I carry in this Post:
The first was to equip almost all Canon bodies I own of firmware hack “Magiclantern” which resident on sd, provides additional settings, including of course, a feature that I find very useful is the intervallomentro and the Bulb setting via software.
So you don’t have to always rely for example remote timer flush excess vibration which could produce but also has many other functions, I refer you to the official website to ensure compatibility with your Canon: http://www.magiclantern.fm/
While a solution completely “wireless” even with the ability to review the images as shot is the solution DSLRController, which derives from a more expensive with app and dedicated controller (although it looks the same) called CamRanger, here is a link to the app, and to directions: https://dslrcontroller.com
This solution need an APP for Android smartphones, which costs 6 euros on GooglePlayStore and a small battery-powered wireless 3 g router which costs 40 euros and called TP-LINK MR-3040, which suitably modified in firmware and USB-connected door literally your camera’s Liveview via WIFI (both Canon and Nikon).
Now you just need to set up the shots, from your mobile phone. It is a system that I have used for several years and still use however it must be said that I have always taken by a “stand alone” driving mode initially with LVI, then finally with the Lacerta Auto-guider.
Those who use rooms with door ST4 like QHY5 or ZWO ASI120 requires software that runs generally from PC/personal computer/laptop, with the disadvantages that follow don’t last unless you have the ability to connect to the mains (for example in the Alps in summer sessions by transhumant) have enough batteries to allow shooting all night.
In recent years it has released a project called iAstrohub, which introduced me to a friend and I felt, first through the android stick with particular Arm processor and later adapted to more powerful Rasberry PI3, with the last project named iAstroHub 3.0:
The astronomical “supported hardware” is very broad and it does become a low-cost alternative because what is necessary, houses and rasberry shouldn’t cost more than 60 euro!
Autoguiders Orion Starshoot autoguider, QHY5, QHY5-II, QHY5L-II, QHY6, ATIK, Starlight Xpress, ZWO ASI cameras DSLR Cameras Canon (since 300D) and Nikon (since D50) DSLR cameras. Pentax DSLR cameras (Refer to http://pktriggercord.melda.info/) CCD Cameras and Filter Wheels Native control with GoQat: QSI and Starlight Xpress Native control with OpenSkyImager: SBIG, ATIK, and 5, 6, 8 (5ii, QHY, 87, 9, 10, 11.12, IC8300 INDI driver: FLI, Apogee, Moravian, ATIK, SBIG, QSI, ZWO ASI, SX, etc. Mounts Controlled by Skychart: mounts using LX200, iOptron, Nexstar/Skywatcher, TheSkyX protocols Controlled by SkySafari: Almost all mounts are supported. Refer to http://skysafariastronomy.com/ Focusers Native control: Robofocus INDI driver: Robofocus, Moonlite, FocusLynx, etc.
That’s all for now:) I hope this information will help!